Rover 200 & 400 Owners Club

crepello many thanx for this - unfortunatelly, I started disasembling it before I got the chance to read this...

Why unfortunatelly?

Well, I disconected the steering column from the rack in the footwell, but then found out, I took out the upper part of the joint-ball aseembly instead of the bottom one, so logicaly, the rack wouldn't wanna come out because of the extra extension. All good - but...I managed to forget about the fact I shouldn't turn these parts when disasembled - unfortunatelly, I turned the joint-ball assembly while it was off the steering column allready...I guess I'll deal with it later.

As for the subframe, can anyone tell me how heavy it realy is? Just so I can be prepared. I guess if I suport it with the hydraulic lift on one side while I work on the other might work? If not, I will of course get some help. Mine is rotten only on one side - the layer on the top (as far as I can remember its two or three layers at some points). But yeah, its the connecting part, the one that acts as a bridge where the beam is tightened into the chasis. I am taking it off just so I can sleep better. I will clean it, sand blast it in weld if / where, needed and protect it. Not sure yet how Im going to do all that due to stupid shape but we'll see

It really is a pitty to see such a great car with a design flaw that causes them to die before they should really...

gofra wrote:crepello many thanx for this - unfortunatelly, I started disasembling it before I got the chance to read this...

Why unfortunatelly?
<snip>
All good - but...I managed to forget about the fact I shouldn't turn these parts when disasembled - unfortunatelly, I turned the joint-ball assembly while it was off the steering column allready...I guess I'll deal with it later.

As for the subframe, can anyone tell me how heavy it realy is?

When you reassemble the steering column, I think you'll find the universal joint upper clamp bolt passes across a flat on the column shaft so it can only go in one position. There's probably a 'filled tooth' feature on the rack pinion splined shaft to make that do the same at the lower end of the joint. Mind you, which particular revolution of the rack pinion you want to engage is a matter of trial and error.

The subframe weighs about the same as a desktop laser printer, as far as I recollect, which is OK with it dangling from your arm, but not so good if you're underneath pushing up with one hand while loosening the last bolt with the other, and not knowing when the bolt's about to let go!

Cheers,

Having just done one of these at the weekend I can sympathise. Unfortunatly mine was a little more involved due to what had to be removed to get at it (220 turbo)



Anyhow for tips;

Leave the PAS rack on the subframe - its easier to remove it later.
Disconnect the hoses and let them drain into a container. Turning the wheel from side to side can aid removal of the fluid. I plugged the drain hose with a suitable sized bolt.
On mine exahust and turbo had to come off first.
Also worth considering remving the anti-roll bar if you want to reduce the weight. You can leave it on but its quite heavy.
You are likely to need to remove the front exhaust - can't remember on the 1.6 but certainly on the 2.0 you do.
Ditto for the engine mounts I presume they are somewhere on the subframe but not sure on the 1.6 You may need to support the engine whilst the subframe is removed.
I stuck a jack under each side and then remove the bolts and lowered the jacks but most people won't have 3 trolley jacks (2 for subframe, one to support the engine!)
Subframe weighs probably 15kg bare. Add another say 3-5kg for the PAS rack and another 5kg for the anti-roll bar. It soon adds up.

E_T_V wrote:Having just done one of these at the weekend I can sympathise. Unfortunatly mine was a little more involved due to what had to be removed to get at it (220 turbo)

Can I ask whether the bracket on top (engine steady I presume) is a welded or a bolt-on addition? And is there a group of 3 unused threaded holes (into internal captive nuts) on the front face?

On the 214, the steadying arrangement is different, a bolt-on bracket under the rack, and the gear selector bellcrank bracket for the R65 gearbox uses the three holes. As it's difficult to get the precise subframe variant when it's needed, it would be handy to know the extent of rework needed to convert between variations.

Cheers,

The big bracket on the top is welded on and is the engine mount and steady bar for the T series engine. (hence different subframes for T series engines).

The threaded holes on the front face are for PAS hose mounting brackets. Two are used on the T series. I guess the others would be used on the other models. Also I think the subframes are the same for left and right hand drive so perhaps some of the holes are used for bolting different bits to depending on which side the PAS rack is on.

Many thanx guys!

I managed to get the steering rack out (needed to take of a track rod end on one side). I thought rest is going to be easy...but how the **** do you take off the rear engine/tranny mount on a 216 GTI? The one that comes attached to the subframe? Im seriously without ideas as some bolts are inacessible to me...

One of the two bolts, that connects the mount with the subframe was easy, the other one however is virtually inaccessible. There is firewall on one side, fuel lines and intake manifold on top...no go from below as it is sitting too high...nowhere I can get near with a key. I started thinking of taking the horizontal one off (http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID002430 < item nr. 39), but again, I fail. I can put the key on, but I simply dont have enough room to be able to turn it properly...

Any ideas guys? :/ How did you do it - which bolt did you go for?

Thnx!