[Stan Thomas]

Although I've always used Waxoyl in the past - does anyone have any recomendations regarding a better spray product now on the market?

Regards to at,

Stan.

P.S.
Very good turn-out yesterday at the Milton Keynes event - and the museum was well worth a visit!

[alviseven]

I have always found that some products leak over you later on but I use cavity wax to spray inside all chassis box sections and doors bottoms sills etc. So much cleaner and so often I have found that cars come to me with this from new have super protection. Plus is does not leak over you garage floor later!

[Johnny 216GSi]

Dinitrol 1000 cavity wax, which sprays clear and is very thin, but starts to solidify quickly once it's penetrated everywhere, so it'll stop dripping all over your drive.

Buzzweld WAR underbody super wax. Buy the "power can" aerosol version, which will be the easiest to apply. It remains soft and pliable underneath, but the top surface dries out so it isn't sticky and doesn't pick up dust from the road, so it stays looking good. Has a sort of dark grey mottled finish which looks nice too.

https://www.buzzweld.co.uk/war-underbod ... erwax.html

Probably put the underbody wax on first, then do cavities and box sections afterwards with the Dinitrol 1000.

Dinitrol 1000 is available from lots of different sellers. You can also buy the long plastic flexible tube with multi-outlet head which sprays everywhere, for about £6-£7 pounds. This is ideal for feeding into the sills including the front and rear wheel arch access grommets (which are on the outside of the car) and getting the wax up and around the rear wheel arch cavities, which is critical for the R8.

Before doing any of this, if you've got lots of rust, wire brush and rub it down first so the rusty surfaces all have a powdery finish (i.e. you're wire-brushing or sanding into pure rust). Wipe off the powdery stuff with a clean rag soaked in pure acetone which acts as a powerful degreaser too, and then spray with Dinitrol RC900 rust converting primer. This needs at least 24 hours to dry. Acetone is the recommended prep for RC900.

I was previously a proponent of Buzzweld's Chassis In One (CIO) glass-flake underbody paint, and their HD black gloss paint (also a glass flake paint, but without the rust converter built in). I have one car done in CIO (2 coats) with Dinitrol 4010 Corroheat over the top. This was offered to me as part of an underbody beautifying and rust-proofing service that I went for. Corroheat is advertised as an engine enamel these days, but was actually a clear protective coating developed for Morgan for their cars, as customers could choose their own colour and paint finish under their cars and they wanted something to protect it. After several years, it remains completely intact with no flaking or rust showing and is an easy-clean underbody surface. I've done my other car with Dinitrol RC900 over rusty areas (after rubbing down, washing, and wiping over with acetone, followed by CIO as an undercoat, followed by HD black as a top coat as it's glossy and easier to clean than CIO. It's only been on just over a year, but everything seems to be intact with no flaking or rust visible. I would still recommend these approaches if you want an easy-to-clean underbody finish that you can just wipe over to get looking good again. I did this myself with the car on ramps.

The reason I'm suggesting the wax is because it dries with a firm top layer, so it won't pick up road dust and will remain looking good. Wax has the benefit of remaining conformal to the body shape to minimise the risk of moisture/water ingress. In fact, Buzzweld makes a rust-converting primer which sprays brown and they have a 4-coat system which involves using this, followed by HD black, followed by their WAR wax. I make that 3 coats, so I'm not sure what the 4th is.

[Stan Thomas]

Thanks for your advice lads - another job on the list!

Regards to all,

Stan.