[Roverguest]

Hi guys,

Which clips are people using for the bottom of their R8's doorcards?

The original type are NLA and I do have some ebay generic yellow "fir tree" types, however they are pretty chunky and further removal of doorcard would pull the glued clip brackets off.

Cheers

[Johnny 216GSi]

Rimmer does an aftermarket part for this, code: EKM100100P

It's on this part page: https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID002592 but will be on others for the rear doors and later VIN number cars.

Never tried them, but if Rimmer are selling them as a replacement they surely work.

[Julesmat50]

Never tried them, but if Rimmer are selling them as a replacement they surely work.

I took Johnny's advice after asking a similar question and went ahead and bought these. They work just fine, though you have to remove the old plastic socket from the door first, else they won't go in. Rather than mating with the socket, they clip straight into the hole in the door.

[Johnny 216GSi]

Never tried them, but if Rimmer are selling them as a replacement they surely work.

I took Johnny's advice after asking a similar question and went ahead and bought these. They work just fine, though you have to remove the old plastic socket from the door first, else they won't go in. Rather than mating with the socket, they clip straight into the hole in the door.

I might just go ahead and buy some of these then, as one clip in a rear door just won't hold at the moment. I looked at that extra bit of circular plastic and decided it was a bit flawed as a reusable fixing method. I like the idea of these going straight into the door - they're designed to contract quite a bit so I reckon they'll be better.

[Roverguest]

Doorcard remains firmly in place with these replacements without squeeking or anything?

[Roverguest]

Also, front doorcards, does the lip at top with seal go inside the door between inner skin and glass (as per R3) or just sit above?

[Johnny 216GSi]

Also, front doorcards, does the lip at top with seal go inside the door between inner skin and glass (as per R3) or just sit above?

Answer to this question is that I haven't taken off my front door cards, but the rears definitely have a lip which sits over the inner metal skin to the door - this presumably keeps the felt covered rubber window wipe/drip strip in contact with the inside of the glass. There's no reason to suspect the front door cards are any different.

Remember to free the card at the bottom so it feels as though it's free to come off but is "hinged" at the top, then try and push up from the bottom to unhook it. If you just pull, you'll snap all the liner material which will then flake and the door card will start to fail. This will give a really nasty-looking crinkle/creased appearance to the vinyl finish that you see along the top. Remember to disconnect the leccy mirror switches first of course, if you have them

There's an article in The Viking club magazine this quarter where I describe using epoxy resin (e.g. Araldite "standard" slow-cure glue) to reinforce the door card material from behind by just painting it on. The door card material seems to have a very high affinity for this type of glue - it bonds like it's become part of the door card. If you break the cards taking them off, I suggest doing this straight away rather than just refitting them and thinking everything will be okay. If the glue is quite thick, you need to think about getting a pair of pliers and bending the inner door skin lip a little wider so the card still fits over it. You only need to do the top edge, and only by a millimetre or so tops, so there's still plenty of pressure on the drip strip.