Hi everyone. After a reassembling my car with a new cv-joint (stub axle), snap ring and gaiter, it popped off the shaft while I was driving. I’m wondering if it was that I’ve damaged the drive shaft. The violence needed to remove the old stub axle was unbelievable.

Anyway, my question is this: if I replace the entire RH drive shaft… could I use a 214 RH shaft? A friend suggested a LH Concerto one (1600cc) may fit, which I assume is the same as a LH 216 one?

I ask as I’m struggling to find a 420 R8 RH one for sale. Any pointers to suppliers welcomed.

Thanks

Hello i have honda drivesharfts and t series off i can check the length honda driveshafts are the same length both sides not sure on the splines gearbox side , the snap ring if not located correctly or if its made of cheap metal can do this i would inspect the shaft and if ok try another ring first i had one a few years ago nee snap ring did the same as yours when inspected the ring was bent so put the old one back in still driving around 10 years on .ifvyoj need a driveshaft let me know

Thanks if you wouldn’t mind measuring them I’d be grateful.

I have the original snap ring. I assumed it might be damaged by the immense pressure it was under from the puller plus the savage lump hammering to get the stub axle off. It did look fine though. Wonder if that’s the way to go. Just nervous now having broken down with it. I use the car for work and my commutes are on smart motorways so if I can play safe with a whole new shaft it would be my preference

Did you use a new snap ring? If you reused the old one it could well have broken, or dislocated, when you refitted the driveshaft. Many years ago I had this problem, on a 216 Honda engine, when a mechanic did a repair for me. After the repair, first time on full lock, the driveshaft dropped out. When I looked at it myself I found only half a snap ring. Refitted it with a new and problem solved.

Pretty sure that Honda used a short shaft and bearing/joint bolted to the back of the block to give same-length driveshafts, so you could use a LH one.

This was to reduce torque steer, even though the D-series doesn't really generate much Rover didn't do the same on the other engines...

StubbornPatriot wrote: ↑Sat Dec 06, 2025 11:54 pm Did you use a new snap ring? If you reused the old one it could well have broken, or dislocated, when you refitted the driveshaft. Many years ago I had this problem, on a 216 Honda engine, when a mechanic did a repair for me. After the repair, first time on full lock, the driveshaft dropped out. When I looked at it myself I found only half a snap ring. Refitted it with a new and problem solved.

That’s my immediate thought, or the ring doesn’t sit “proud” enough of the driveshaft end to retain the CV joint.

Either way, they’re not really ideal to re-use, a new one is best.

That was what happened with me, fill lock turning right as it popped out.

Sounds like a good gamble to buy a concerto LH one in that case. RH non-LSD 420 one’s seem like hens teeth.

I’ll take the shaft out and examine new and old rings. May just get a build Concerto shaft then fix the one that’s on as a spare. I’ve lost confidence in both me and it!

Ok same length as you can see , but i would just put a another snap ring on first and go round the block to test full lock , also if you have ABS you will need the reluctor ring changing on the honda shaft .as you can see the middle honda shaft cant be used as Gti John say above but would buy the honda as a spare

Thank you all so much for doing this.

Mine is a non-ABS so I assume I could use either an ABS or non-ABS shaft if needed?

I will take that advice - try a new snap ring. If the ultimate test is turning on full lock and setting off that’s reassuring and easy to test. Hoping to get the shaft out Wednesday to try again.

Yip, either ALB (Honda ABS ) or non-ALB. Probably lucky to find the former nowadays...