Rover 200 & 400 Owners Club

i use these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DAMAGED-STUBB ... SwCQNWcUKT

Thanks the impact driver bit looks particularly useful.

Hello me again looking for words of wisdom.The crank pulley bolts all came off with the last one I needed an unlock tool as previously suggested.This may be an exceptionally daft question but how can you remove the timing belt?I marked its position and slipped it off the cam gears but cannot stash it away somewhere safe because it runs around the top right-hand side engine mount(engine is still in the car).Do I leave it dangling and get on to taking off the head or can I somehow get it past the engine mount with engine in situ??

jack under the sump, un-do the 19mm nut, jack engine up further, swap belt.

cool-thanks again

Hello again.Really getting to grips with putting this 220 sli on the road again but would have got nowhere without help from numerous forum- users, most notably, dist and ETV.
Had a slight setback today.Managed to get the wrong rad through from Rimmer Bros.On their site I saw a rad at a very reasonable price which was supposed to be for 200s and 400s up to 1995.I imagined that would cover N132LFH which is a 1995 220 nasp Sli without air con.But the rad that was delivered today is two inches broader than mine and doesn't have a sensor on the offside as mine does.Could anyone tell me which replacement radiator I need if,that is,the right one is still available??The one that Rimmers have sent me looks to be for ROVER216XW according to the invoice and its deffo not right.

Will it physically fit and does your car use the sensor in the current radiator (Some cars had blanks fitted with the sensors were - or even sensors with no wires attached!).

I'd be tempted to take your rad to a local place and see if they'll re-core it as that is usually (but not always!) cheaper than buying a new one.

You need to be very careful with Rimmers Sale pages on their website; always cross reference via a generic search of the correct page for your variant of R8. I suspect that you need a bigger rad for a 2 litre compared to a D16?

The x ref' data on those sale pages is dubious, that's how I ended up with a drivers wiper arm for a L/H/D Coupe!

Just send it back!

Hi thanks for those replies etv and TB I took the opportunity of needing to return the 216 rad to visit Rimmer Bros.Managed to have a good day out what with the exhibits and the general proximity of Bracebridge Heath to Lincoln city centre.Great fan of Roman roads me.Anyway Rimmers frankly told me that they don't have that many parts for the Sli.It hadn't occurred to me that not all T series models would necessarily have been supplied with the exact same radiator (as ETV noted in his post above).I can see a product on the fastrads site (Edinburgh i think) which looks to be a good match size-wise and has the advantage of being cheap so I am minded to try that next.Too far for a day out so it will have to be DPD.
Will have to put the car in for mot this week.Found some rust under the spare wheel . Thanks for the advice .

Hi deffo used up my three wishes with N123LHF but if any more advice is forthcoming -well ace.Situation is that the lad dragged the R8 out of the long grass out back nigh on a year ago now and we were on a mission to rescue it from oblivion.Help from the forum got us to the stage last month where literally everything worked,even the radio,whereas we had had HGF,rounded flywheel-nuts the whole bit.In July we took it to the MOT station and at that point the only problem was,seemingly, a tiny hole under the spare wheel which I had anyway concealed under a hi-vis vest.
However the owner of the local MOT station had a screwdriver and the car came back with three entirely new holes- in the rear sills and in the off-side rear wheel-arch.Perhaps more importantly, having failed the MOT, it came back with a quote for four hundred-odd quids worth of MOT welding.
It reads like an indictment.Three counts of 'corrosion within 30cm of a body-mount'.In an ideal world (i don't of course have a spare four hundred) it would just be a rust-removal and fibre-glass job and in that case the R8 would be outside, resplendent already, in a fresh coat of Tahiti Blue.But 'corrosion within 30cm' so---WELDING is unavoidable.I have welded on a lawnmower and on a trivet and own a MIG with two power- settings.Sadly I have also watched enough US you-tube videos to realise that sheet-metal on vehicles takes time to learn-- and the rain falls unabated.
So, please, I would like to know whether anyone has learned to weld by practising on an R8 and with what results?Is it something that should on no account be embarked upon?Are there any ROVER- SPECIFIC videos that might help and am I right in thinking that the skin sills offered by Rimmers are the only pre-fabricated part that I could usefully buy.Thankyou so much- Duncan