[roverman1]

After changing my discs and pads I now have a brake peddle that goes half way down before it slows the car down, I suspect a failing master cylinder, does anyone know where I can get a re build kit or a very reasonable priced new item from, oh its 1993 416 non ABS model.

Thanks.

[RoverRevival]

i think you need to make sure you bleed it properly first.
try to get them bled without a quality 1 man pressure bleed kit.

[RoverRevival]

i use these two having tried and failed with all the other types.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-and-Clu ... SwTapV3PUM

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Brake- ... Swv0tVA1lf

[E_T_V]

As above. Check sliders aren't seized and that ALL the brakes are bled properly. It doesn't take a lot of air in the system to make the brakes inoperative.

[roverman1]

Thanks for the reply's, I've bled the brakes to an inch of their lives and still no difference, I've got a replacement master cylinder which I'm going to try when it eventually stops raining.

[crepello]

Could a proportioning valve failure create the symptom? They have a little rupture plug which shows when they are in trouble.

Is your handbrake efficiency impaired? That would implicate the friction surfaces.

[E_T_V]

Sometimes vacuum bleeding is the only way. If there has been a lot of fluid pumping etc then sometimes it is better to wait until the next day so any microscopic bubbles can merge to make the bleeding easier.

[g259fsg]

Another question. Does the brake pedal feel hard without the engine running, i.e. no servo. That will tell you if there is air in the system, or if the master cylinder needs to be "pumped-up" to be firm, so to speak. The latter would probably indicate worn seals in the master cylinder. If the pads are close to the discs there shouldn't be a lot of travel on the pedal assuming they have bedded in OK and there isn't a lot of run-out on the discs.

Cheers,
Hugh

[roverman1]

The Handbrake work perfectly, now I have noticed over the past few weeks that sometimes when the pedal is pressed it would drop a further inch or so, while there's pressure on it and that was before the pads and discs were changed.

The pedal does firm up when the engine is off but it does sink slowly while under pressure, thats why I think it's the master cylinder, and there are no leaks anywhere not even at the proportioning valve. I'm just grateful it's not fitted with the Honda ALB system.

[g259fsg]

Does sound like the master cylinder. I did a lot of work on the back brakes of our 214 last autumn (thread on rear brake pipes below). Afterwards, I felt there was more initial travel on the brake pedal compared to beforehand, although I did bleed all four brakes thoroughly. The pedal is hard without the engine running, but seems softer with the servo working than it did before. After nearly 26 years, it could be something in the master cylinder or servo that needs some work.

Cheers,
Hugh